Canada | July & August 2023 |
This is a 2-part story.
Part 1: First Attempt at Wells Gray, Failure
The first major ride of the year I had planned was Salmon Arm (Shuswap) to Clearwater to Wells Gray Provincial Park, via Adams Lake (unpaved, shortcut). I was using this trip as a trial to see how well the KLR was running, after I ended my 2022 riding season with some engine problems and an expensive service bill. I had never been to Wells Gray, a renowned area of BC wilderness (and a place with some dark history).
I set off to ride via the Adams Lake FSR, a gravel road that shortens the trip by about 45 minutes versus the highway via Kamloops. This is a great ride from Salmon Arm along Shuswap Lake, then high up along Adams Lake, through some amazing rural homesteader land between Agate Bay and Barriere, and then north along the Upper Thompsom River to Clearwater.
Once I got to Clearwater, I stopped (BC Liquor Store) and after I got off my bike, I noticed a large flow of liquid running from under it. I couldn't figure out where it was coming from, but it was pouring out from my skid plate. Obviously, this was not good, pretty much a disaster, in fact. The fluid appeared to be coolant. So I rode to a gas station. A guy who claimed to own six KLRs, told me to use some "radiator gunk" to plug the leak. Bought some of that, but it didn't fix it. I then rode (precariously, anticipating my engine to fry at any moment) to a tire shop; they told me to go 1km up the road to a motorcycle mechanic.
I located what appeared to be the shop and junkyard of quad and moto hulks. After a few knocks on the shop door, a guy appeared and invited me in. Turns out this is Fred Sawatsky, a master moto mechanic who is also the regional contact for a global adventure rider network, the person who you call if you need assistance along the BC and Yukon stretch of the Pan America Highway (he had a great story about a rider from Bali who stayed at his place for 1-month while awaiting parts and fixes - a BMW GS1200, yes). Fred immediately diagnosed my issue (broken water pump) and gave me a parts and repair estimate (2 weeks wait for a part, $100 labor).
While Fred's service terms seemed great, it wasn't the best solution as I was 200 km from home, and 2-weeks is a long time. So I worked out transport of my bike back home with one of Fred's contacts, did the 3-hour ride home with his nice dog. Back in Salmon Arm, I got the bike fixed at Shuswap Extreme, the local Kawasaki shop.
While this breakdown was not a positive experience, there was a silver lining in meeting Fred; aside from some great hospitality, support, and gratis service estimate, he also gave me a bottle of his homemade wine. One day, I will go back to Fred for KLR service. He also offers free camping to riders at his property.
Part 2: Second Attempt at Wells Gray, Success
About 1 month later, I decided to finish what I started, to make another attempt to get to Wells Gray. The KLR had been running ok (ranging from excellent to awful, actually). In parallel, my paranoia level was running very high in anticipation of breakdowns.
Whatever. Again, I followed the Adams Lake road which now featured the emerging Adams Lake Complex forest fire, burning high up the mountain on my side of the lake, and down the mountain to the lakeshore across the lake.
I made it to Clearwater, then rode the 80 km on the scenic, excellent, mostly dirt road to Wells Gray. Stayed one night at Falls Greek Campground, an amazing setting along the Clearwater River. The next day I stopped at Helmcken Falls, a must-see BC attraction. Wells Gray lived up to expectations.
The trip back was not without its challenges (though not bike maintenance related, hallelujah!). In just one day, the Adams Lake fire had grown considerably. When I arrived back at Adams Lake (Agate Bay), I discovered the road was barricaded, though there were no authorities there to stop me. So I rode through. Having been a forest firefighter in the past, I was aware of the risks. But I was surprised just how serious the fire was, and how much it had grown in just one day. It was now burning right along the road, and large balls of flaming debris the size of basketballs (fireballs, basically) were rolling down the mountain, across the road. I met a large group of forest firefighters, some from USFS from Redding California. While I wasn't overly worried about my safety, I started to get worried that police or govt officials may be at the other end of the road, and the fines potentially substantial for driving through the roadblock. But when I got to the other side there were no authorities present, I rode right on through. Side note: the Adams Lake Complex fire grew substantially in the following days/weeks, burning a massive swath of Shuswap Lake, including more than 100 homes, even a local fire hall.
Unfortunately, though they have always been an element of summers in the BC interior, forest fires have become a severe "burning" issue, decimating massive swaths of land and property, severely polluting the air, and diminishing what were previously pristine summers and a huge tourism industry.
Ride: 500 km / 7 hrs (return)
Stay: Falls Creek Campground $20 / 5/5