Sumatra: Batusangkar > Twin Lakes

May 9-10 2025 |

Section 4 of my West Sumatra tour. This was the least exciting leg of my tour, but it got me closer to Kerinci.

At Batusangkar, I needed to make a decision: ride back to Padang, or continue south to Kerinci and the trans-mountain road back to the coast (at least 2 more days of travel). I decided to go south. I couldn't find any reference info about tourists riding in this direction, so I was winging it.

After touring the Minan grand buildings outside Batusangkar, I rode to Lake Singkarak. Nice ride, some "classic" views of rice paddies and whatnot. The lake is a decent sight, though nothing compared to Lake Minajau further north. I rode around the east side, then headed south towards the Twin Lakes.

At some point I missed a turn. I couldn't figure out why I was suddenly in a massive traffic jam, in a long snake of vehicles down a steep grade out the mountains. And then it started pouring rain. Trucks were broken down going up and down the hill. It was a hell-scape. After 20 minutes, I looked at Google Maps and realised I was on the main highway to Padang, not the road to Twin Lakes.

Back on the right track, it was a decent section of road, riding through tea plantations, would be nice on a sunny day. But given the relentless rain and altitude, I was starting to freeze.

Then things got worse. It was a long weekend. When I arrived at the Twin Lakes, I couldn't find accommodation online. I ended up paying a crazy high price for a terrible room. Then, I couldn't find a place to eat. It was about 10c, and I didn't have the right clothes (and the ones I had were wet).

At this stage, I was so frazzled I bought a pack of Garam and started smoking for the first time in 20 years.

The next morning the skies had cleared a bit and I got a decent view of the lake I stayed at (the southern one). I guess this is a nice place, but I can't highly recommend it as a destination for international travellers (perhaps I missed the highlights?).

Ride: 110 km / 3 hrs

Stay: ? / $20 *

Questions or comments?

Drop me a line: terraxplor1@gmail.com