Published: January 2023 |
Preparation
Before I left Singapore, I read online that you need an authorised letter of approval from the local Lao consulate in order to enter the country on a Singapore-registered motorcycle. I copied an example of a sample of such a letter found online, revised it with my anticipated trip, and emailed it to the authorities (apparently you are supposed to do it in person, but I was already in Thailand at that point). I got a quick reply from them stating I do not need this type of letter. So, I just prepped to enter with my bike registration, Singapore DL, passport, $, and anticipated itinerary.
One can easily rent a motorcycle in Laos and travel anywhere. There are many blogs and social posts detailing this approach (my only feedback is that shorts and singlets and old helmets are not the best gear for a safe and trouble-free ride!)
Border & Entry
Entering Laos with a motorcycle (Singapore bike, from Thailand) is a fairly complex undertaking and nerve-wracking. Borders have different rules, and the rules seem to be flexible; some allow solo riders, and some only allow groups. These rules seem to change regularly for no apparent reason.
It's best to check some of the rider groups like HUBB or many Facebook groups with questions and updates of others' recent experiences.
Expect to pay a fee at the border (a scam). I entered Laos at Hua Xuay and the process was seamless until I was requested to follow a plainclothes "tourist police" man up to a 2F room, where I was told to pay a B2000 fee for 30 day temporary import as a solo rider, or I would need to pay for a guide. After some quibbling (I offered B500) I paid the full fee as requested, in order to keep moving. As I exited that engagement, I realized that I probably could have just ignored them downstairs, and exited the border (I read later of others have done exactly this).
Insurance is sold at the Huay Xay border, I purchased an AXA plan for about B200.
Mobile & Wifi
I used Unitel, paid $8 for 80GB - pretty fair. This lasted for more than 2 weeks both as my phone data and hotspot.
I barely tried wifi anywhere, as it didn't seem to provide internet or the connection was always terrible.
Cost
Laos is great value, I averaged less than $40 per day; if you were on a tight budget you could easily live on half that amount.
Fuel is a bit more expensive than Thailand, but everything else is cheaper.
Roads & Driving
The roads are bad in the north, crumbling pavement or dirt, and there are many transport trucks and pickups, They get increasingly better as you journey south.
Overall, I found the drivers in Laos to be very decent, I never felt unsafe or experienced much reckless driving.
Communication & Safety
In the north, outside major centers like Luang Prabang, very few people speak English, often none at all. And can appear to be indifferent and shy towards foreigners (I assume it's a combo of poor English, impact (NPI) of the atrocious bombing during the Vietnam War, and maybe just culture). In the south, English was more broadly spoken and locals more social.
For me, Laos was very safe, I never had any type of incident or felt at risk.
Accommodation
You can find excellent basic accom everywhere, AC, hot water, decent bed, amazing throwback rooms of teak furnishings.
I used Agoda a lot to pre-book. But you can easily do walk-in bookings everywhere
I paid between $5-25 a night, average was $15 (USD).
Duration & Route
I didn't have a set agenda when I entered Laos, got 30 days on arrival. Entered in north with a plan to exit in south into Cambodia or back to Thailand. Ended up staying 3.5 weeks, exiting into Cambodia.
There are 3 motorcycle "loops" in Laos, and I did some of each of them. The North-East Loop was the most adventurous and rewarding, and the most challenging; Thakhek Loop is decent; the Bolavean Loop in south was fairly ho-hum IMO (mind you, I was a bit "looped" by the time I got there).
Must do
I recommend spending extended time in: Nong Khiaw, Phonsavan/Plain of Jars, Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng, Na Hin/Khong Lor Cave, Thakhek, Don Det.
Savannaket, Pakse, Oudomxay are good, single night or shorter-stays.
Vientiane is a must-stop for most, but there's not much of note there.
My route & Trip reports
North
South
Questions?
Drop me a line at sdasia@gmail.com, happy to assist