BC: South Vancouver Island Loop
- S D
- May 20
- 3 min read
Updated: 1 day ago
Canada | Summer 2024 |
Ride: 485 km / 8.5 hrs / 2 stops
Stay: Bamfield / French Beach
After doing the north section of the Vancouver Island Grand Loop in 2023, I was keen to complete the south section - and did it summer 2024 (as well as a ride to Tofino/Uclulet on the west side of the island, not technically part of the "classic" Loop, but kind of, and awesome territory to visit).
The South Island ride is fairly pedestrian compared to the North route. The roads are better, and there's zero navigation uncertainty (like I had in the north, using Google Maps). But it's a great ride, with some very cool locales and scenes to visit and experience.
Ride 1: Nanaimo to Bamfield
175 km / 3 hrs
From Nanaimo via Port Alberni it's an easy ride to Bamfield, on the other side of the inlet across from the Uclulet/Tofino road. The route runs through coastal rainforest, much of which is depleted on Vancouver Island. Luckily, I didn't experience any rain, a mainstay in these parts.
This was my first trip to Bamfield, and I was impressed. It's a unique maritime community that seems more like Canada's east coast (to me). There's a famous marine research station here, worth checking out, where you can learn about Bamfield's interesting history, including the fact that an Australian was a major community builder. While most people stay (or aspire to stay) at the nearby government campsite, I lucked out and got a space at the Centennial Park Campground, a funky little campsite right in town. The natives are super friendly here, especially the First Nations folks. Bamfield is a staging point for the West Coast Trail, you can start or finish the journey here (something I'd like to do one day).
Ride 2: Bamfield to French Creek via Lake Cowichan & Port Renfrew
Ride: 225 km / 4.5 hrs
Stay: French Beach Provincial Park *****
This second leg of the ride was more challenging, with a long dirt section. After leaving Bamfield, you backtrack a bit then turn of onto a FSR that continues for about 90 minutes to Lake Cowichan, closer to the east coast of the island than the west. On Google Maps, there appeared to be a shorter route between Bamfield and Port Renfrew, but I didn't want to risk taking it, a solo rider on a break-down prone bike. And, I had never been to Lake Cowichan, so I was keen to tick that box. From there, I rode on to Port Renfrew back on the west coast, a route that is largely "cuts" through clear cuts (it's grim to see just how bad Vancouver Island has been stripped clean of old-growth forest). I did a stop in Port Renfew harbour, saw some of the catch of the day, salmon and other game fish just in, getting cleaned, impressive. From Port Renfrew, I kept riding, on a road that runs pretty high about the coast, with some epic views of the Strait of Juan De Fuca (what a name) and over to the Olympic Peninsula on the Washington side. This is a harsh environment of scrub trees and high wind - no wonder it's barely settled. By 4 pm, I was at French Beach, a provincial campsite, and was lucky to score a site due to a cancellation.
R3: French Creek to Schwartz Bay (to Princeton & Salmon Arm)
Ride: 84km / 70 mins
I packed up and ambled down the coast, by-passed Victoria, and caught the ferry from Schwartz Bay. So technically I didn't complete the "Grand Loop" as I didn't do the Victoria to Nanaimo leg - but I have done it many times in the past. From the ferry, I rode back to Salmon Arm via the Hope Princeton highway (will post an update on this route).
My route and stops
Click the "window" at top-left on the map for more details.
More Vancouver Island Grand Loop
Questions or Comments?
Drop me a note at terraxplor1@gmail.com
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